2015 spring special
6-8 ft Colorado Spruce
$140 FOB Leduc min order 20 trees
4-6 inch caliper American elm
depending on size min 10
buy 80 trees get a better price!!
over 20,000 trees of all kinds!!
Growing here not imported
We have sites at Leduc, Boyle, Ardrossan, West of Red Deer with all kinds of Alberta grown trees
Alberta Trees , Canada Tree nursery,Edmonton Trees, Calgary Trees, Devon Trees, Leduc trees
Grande Prairie Trees, Fort McMurray Trees, Native Trees,
A Natural Setting for Alberta Trees
For our sustainable operation
We Have Been in the tree business since 1975
shipping caliper stock all over Alberta
min order 10 trees
all loads we arrange are fully tarped and secured
All material is field grown with sustainable management
Always Improving quality of our
We now use: all treated burlap on the root balls
3/4 inch woven strapping to keep the baskets secure
fully tarped loads to reduce drying
evergreens are spirally wrapped reducing damage to branches
deciduous have protectors on their trunks
Other changes can be incorporated at your request
We can hold stock till you are ready after 30 days there may be extra watering charges for this
Alberta Tree Nursery
[Latin name picea pungens] have to be one of the most popular Alberta Trees. They can withstand a variety of climates and soil conditions. They are highly resistant to drying winds in exposed locations and are quite insect,bird and disease resistant. Yes bird, the yellow bellied sapsucker doesn't bother them much. They do go after the Norway spruce so how about that!
Colorado spruce grow to a good height of about 60 feet here and are long lived over 100 years. In some parts of North America they are shorter lived. I don't think they like climates that are too warm and or wet. They are obviously native to Colorado USA. They can be quite fast growing and can grow over a foot a year but then the internodes get too long and some people don't like that.
Generally they grow best on fair to poor quality well drained soil they do well in most parts of Alberta.
All spruce seem to be highly susceptible to salt damage. So don't plant them where they get exposed to drainage or spray off roads etc that are high in salts. I have heard that Ponderosa Pine are somewhat resistant to salts.
When a big truck goes by at 100km/hr there is lots of spray that blows out to the sides and up this spray can be high in salts and accumulates over time killing evergreens
Planting them on a raised burm in danger zones helps somewhat but salts can also rise in the water column in the soil
One of the most confusing things about Colorado's is the name Colorado Blue Spruce/ Blue Spruce etc. There are named cultivars or varieties of Colorado Spruce selected usually for their blue color and or dense growing habit. There are also some that are dwarf and or smaller and pyramidal varieties as well.
But this is very important Colorado spruce can be green or blue and all kinds of shades in between they are all Colorado Spruce. Not all Colorado spruce are blue!
Tree Planting and Care
One of my clients asked me to give him detailed instructions on planting and caring for trees. So I thought I would make a general sheet for anyone who needs the information or wants a review
These trees come in a wire basket lined with treated burlap and the top of the basket is tied
with ¾ inch woven strapping to hold the basket tight. We also will crimp the baskets in many cases
The evergreens are usually spirally wrapped with biodegradable twine to minimize damage. The deciduous have trunk protectors on them. We use plastic wrappers for this you can leave them on they also reduce sun scald.
Remove all twine from the trunks it can grow into the tree and kill or ruin it in a year or two. Check carefully for the loop around the trunk where the wrapping is started. A loop of twine like this cuts thru the cambium layer and will ruin the tree it may even break off above this tie.
Unloading and handling
When you get the load the tarp should be removed carefully and the trees should be removed from the load carefully starting at the front of the trailer or trailers.
When you pick the trees up use two hooks on your loader or loader arm. If you just have a bucket wrap a good chain with two hooks around the bucket and have about two-Three feet of even chain hanging down. The parts hanging down should both be exactly the same length. They should stay the same throughout the process too sometimes they slip so secure them well.
It is important to hook in such a way the tree doesn't’t hit up against the bucket or arm when you pick it up. Always be careful the wire hoops, chain or hydraulics can give out at any point the tree can drop suddenly and that could be dangerous to anyone in the way. Generally miss two of the top hoops on the basket with the chain hooks and hook the next two hoops. You hook two loops one on each side of the basket not side by side so the basket and root ball aren’t damaged with handling. The tree should be tilted up a bit when you lift it not pointing at the ground. Make sure the chain is straight [not twisted] so the tree doesn't’t spin when you pick it up.
This can cause injury to the branches or trunk. You only have 1.5 hours to unload when it is our trucking contractor. Unload quickly and just pile them up beside your work area you can move them around after he is gone. The best method is to have one person on the load to hook the trees and cut the ties holing the root balls together on the load. An experienced careful loader operator and one person on the ground to guide the root balls and un hook.
These may seem like minor points but they are important to minimize damage and give the trees the best chance of success
Ideally the planting holes should be somewhat bigger than the root ball. The tree should be positioned in the hole holding it in place with the chain attached to the loader and the hole should be filled around the tree with top soil not degraded manure or compost as these can burn the roots plant the tree 1-2 inches deeper than the top of the root ball. Too deep can cause the tree roots to suffocate they need air too. It should not be higher than ground level unless you are going to back fill around the trees and raise the grade
The tree should be well secured with guide wires from three sides put a piece of rubber hose with a wire in it ¾ of the way up the main trunk around the trunk. This is what you attach the guide wires to. The larger the tree the more important staking and securing becomes. Trees like pines have very minimal root systems and will often blow out of the root ball. If you want your trees to survive tying is critical. Strong heavy wire should be used, as ropes are nearly impossible to keep tight.
Do not take the tree out of the basket the roots will grow right thru the basket and burlap the burlap eventually breaks down. The white strapping on top of the basket should be cut off once the trees is securely tied with the guide wires. Also remove or fold down the burlap from the top of the ball and you can cut the top loops off the basket at this point you need a bolt cutter or very heavy wire cutters to cut the basket wire. It is now critical to keep the guide wires tight for two years. The bigger the tree the longer it takes to root down securely. Poplar and willow may root down faster than a pine for instance.
Once the tree is well secured and tied cut the white strapping on top of the root ball as it doesn't’t break down make sure it is removed from around the trunk as well as any burlap from the liner that could be wrapped around the trunk should be removed.
The white strapping can be a real killer so make sure it is cut and removed. The basket can be cut in a few places if you can do that without disturbing the root ball. There is some evidence to show that baskets can cause deformities in roots and reduce long term vigor of the tree so cutting down the sides of the basket can be beneficial but do not do this unless the trees is in the hole and if it can be done without disturbing the root ball.
You have panted the tree 1-2 inches deeper than it was this keeps a dish over the root ball
You can also add to this water holding capacity by forming a dish around the top of the root ball with soil increasing the water holding capacity to 4 inches. This is ideal so when you water the tree 20-40 gallons is applied depending on the size of the root ball.
It is ideal to water long and deep as Lois Hole always said. Under dry conditions you may have to water every two weeks like this. A high phosphate water-soluble fertilizer should be used to encourage root development once in the first or second watering. A well-balanced fertilizer like triple 20 should be used once a season first thing in the spring the second year and subseqent years. Watering should continue the first year and less often the second year depending on natural rains. A half inch rain does little to help the trees along unless you get one every day. A three inch rain is another story This could be like a deep thorough watering so don’t go and water again until the soil dries out. But also remember that the only moisture the tree has for the first couple of months is what is trapped in the root ball it doesn't’t get much access to general soil moisture until the roots penetrate the surrounding soil. A mistake I often see is that the grass gets light watering and looks good but the trees don’t get much benefit from the watering as the water is only on the lawn or sod for an hour. This is not enough if you want to water the trees with this method then you have to put on two to thee inches of water at a time It is also important to not drown the trees. Over watering can do this. Plant the trees where they will grow best don’t plant plum family [Maydays, Shuberts etc] in low areas as they will generally drown out sooner or later. Elm poplar or ash can tolerate wetter areas. This is another topic all together.
Drought or moisture tolerant trees develop this ability once they are established for a about two years